Combining Color Pencils and Watercolor Pencils Using Colorless Blenders
by
Carol Moore
Materials and Tools:Reference photo Ruler Exacto Knife Makeup Brush (to brush away debris) Small pointed wooden dowel Fixatif Canson Mi Tientes paper (smooth side) Tombo Colorless Blender markers Prismacolor Clear Blender marker Prismacolor Colorless Blender pencil Faber Castell Jet Marker Eraser Boston Electric Sharpener Derwent Graphic 4H pencil |
Makeup Brush  wooden pointed dowel  Prismacolor Clear Blender Marker |
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Derwent Watercolor Pencils Deep VermillionCedar Green Ivory Black Chocolate Blue Grey Deep Cadmium Orange Chrome Raw Sienna Copper Beech Golden Brown |
Prismacolors Color Pencils White Dark UmberIndigo Blue Sienna Brown Cloud Blue Dark Brown Light Cerulean Blue Yellow Ochre Sand Olive Green Mineral Orange Black Grape Cream Dark Green Sepia Chartreuse Poppy Red Greyed Lavendar Dark Umber Light Umber Clay Rose Pink Rose Goldenrod Beige Tuscan Red Lt. Peach Warm Grey 10%, 20% and 90% French Grey 20%, 30%, 50%, 70%, and 90% |
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Step 1The first thing I do is select the subject and/or reference photos, props, etc., I am going to need to draw my portrait or to do my compositon. For this lesson, I chose this reference photo of a golden retriever puppy I found at webshots. I normally like to use my own reference photos, due to legalities and copyright issues. However if I am unable to use my own photo, I try to notify the photographer and ask permission to use his or her photo. Unfortunately, I was unable to determine who the photographer was of this photo. I normally would not use it, but I really liked the pose, and for what I had in mine for my composition, this puppy photo worked best, than from any of my own photos. Step 2 The second thing I do, is sketch out my composition/portrait. I have no intentions of copying this photo to the exact, I make necessary adjustments to the way I want my compositon to be layed out. There are 3 different methods I use to sketch out a composition: 1. Freehand 2. Grid Method - a great way to achieve accurate results. 3. Trace Method - using Clear acetate and graphite paper The first method is one I apply if I have lots of time and the one I recommend most. The second method takes some time and knowledge. They do have grid tools now you can purchase to help placing the grid and there are several sites that give a step by step process on how to use this method. The third method is one I only use if I am limited on time and have a deadline to meet. I have combined all 3 methods before, when working on a piece. |
  Step 2 |
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Step 3Next, I determine what color pencils, materials and tools I will need to create the portrait. Sometimes I seek the aid of Paint Shop Pro to determine colors I am unsure of in a photo. Two important things to remember: 1. Always make sure your color pencils are nice and sharp 2. Brush away debris periodically to keep your paper nice and clean. I use a large makeup brush, as it's small and easily portable. |
Step 4Before I start applying any colors, I take my small sharp-pointed wooden dowel, or any blunt instrument will work, and mark areas where I want whispy hairs, whiskers, sparkles, highlights, etc. Later on I will go back over these areas and take my exacto knife or a white pencil to brighten highlights where needed. |
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Step 5I started on the background first, layering slowly, with light to medium pressure the following Prisma colors: chartreuse, light umber, sand, cream, yellow ochre, mineral orange, poppy red, cloud blue, indigo blue, and light cerulean blue. Derwents: ivory black, blue grey, chocolate, cedar green, and deep cadmium. |
Step 5 |
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Step 6For the Christmas packages I layered the following Prisma colors: light umber, sand, cream, yellow ochre, mineral orange, poppy red, raw sienna, dark green, pink rose, indigo blue, dark brown, sepia, white and chartreuse. Derwents: deep vermillion, chocolate, cedar green, and deep cadmium. |
 Step 6 |
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Step 7After applying several layers of color, I take the Tombo Colorless blender marker and start blending the background colors. Using the blending marker is a lot like painting with a brush, accept you have more control. As you blend the colors, you will notice the watercolor pencils have a much darker pigment than the color pencils. The color pencil doesn't dissolve as well as the water color pencils, due to the different types of lead. The color pencil lead is wax based, whereas the watercolor pencil lead is water based. The color pencil really stands out well on top of the water color pencil and some interesting effects can be created. |
 Step 7 |
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Step 8For the open package, duck caller, floor and rug in the foreground I layered the following Prismas: white, warm greys, french greys, light umber, clay rose, tuscan red, sepia, midnight blue, poppy red, cloud blue, black grape, pink rose, cream, yellow ochre, and light cerulean blue. Derwents: cedar green, raw sienna, golden brown, copper beech, and chocolate. |
 Step 8 |
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Step 9Next, I start on the puppy. I will be returning later to the background to make necesary adjustments. I like to start off with the eyes and nose areas first, then I work my ways outward. For the puppy's coat, eyes and nose I used the following Prismacolors: warm greys, french greys, dark brown, sepia, sienna brown, yellow ochre, white, sand, dark umber, light umber, goldenrod, greyed lavendar, pink rose, cloud blue, clay rose, light cerulean blue, black grape, beige, and cream. Derwents: blue grey, raw sienna, and golden brown. |
 Step 9 |
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Step 10After layering several colors on the puppy, I take a Prisma colorless blender pencil over the coat, eyes and nose. I also apply it to the duck caller. I also start filling in more of the rug area with cedar green, yellow ochre, clay rose, clay rose and light umber. I also darken up and adjust the packages more. |
 Step 10 |
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Step 11I darken up the shadows, using black grape, dark brown, indigo blue, and greys. I also work on the needles of the tree by adding more cedar green, black grape, yellow ochre and chartreuse. |
 Step 11 |
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Step 12Now I take my white pencil over areas such as the whiskers and whispy hairs of fur to lighten them up a bit. I then spray the first coat of fixatif. I let that dry for about 30 minutes, before I start to work on the portrait again. I then go in and darken the areas around the whispy fur hairs using black grape, poppy red, and cedar green. I also apply a light whispy strokes of light cerulean blue over the whispy hairs. I then add a light layer of light peach over areas on the face to tone down the orange, darken up a few more shadows. I then sign my name and spray a second coat of fixatif. |
 Step 12 |
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Final
And here is the final piece. I titled it "A Christmas Wish". I hope you enjoyed this mini lesson as much as I did. Have fun creating! |
| © 2004 Carol Moore All Rights Reserved |
Copyright © Carol Moore, All Rights Reserved.